Hong Kong

Yes, my trip to Hong Kong was about three months ago but I need to follow through and finish what I started. Blogging, that is. About being in Asia. I started this blog to keep people at home updated on my Asian life, this is true. But truly, my mind is not what it used to be and I need this blog as a journal to recall my adventures as I slowly (or, let's be honest, quickly) slip into my imminent dimension. For instance, when I read my girlhood Lisa Frank diary, I remember how much my older sister, who shall remain nameless, tortured me. I need my online Asian diary to remind me of foreign nations I have tortured as a young adult. These things are important.

So, here is what I remember about Hong Kong three months later...

-Air China lost my luggage. I didn't have the foresight to pack necessary items in my carry-on. Wait, NOT MY FAULT because they said I could carry it on at check-in. Then they changed their mind as I was boarding and, despite my pouting, showed me no sympathy. I knew we would be separated for a few days after the young man tending to my luggage kept approaching me because of his mistakes in filling out the tag. So there I was alone in Hong Kong with no clean panties. Thank goodness for a kind friend who met me at the airport and helped me get to my hostel and also for this store (see picture wherever blogspot ends up placing it).

-I hit up a HUGE amount of sites and interesting places when traveling solo. I suppose it is because I was on constant "GO" mode since there was no one to interject with "I have to pee" or "Can we eat?" or "Seriously, can we stop? I'm bleeding". I can move very quickly. I CAN. I can also get good mileage on little fuel. I'm like a car. The one that gets great mileage with little fuel. I don't really know cars. What I mean to say is that I saw a lot. For instance, on the first day, I made it to the Hong Kong History Museum, Wong Tai Sin Temple, Victoria Park, Hong Kong Park, food and shopping in Tsim Sha Tsui, a light show in Victoria Harbor, and more shopping and food at Temple Street Night Market. I destroyed day one. I was tired. All I can say is everything was great except for Wong Tai Sin Temple (and I LOVE temples). Skip it. Go to Man Mo Temple. I did. TWICE.





- Pig neck is delicious but pig skin is not.

- 'Tis the year of the rabbit. I was lucky to be in Hong Kong right before Lunar New Year because there were little festivals going on here and there and decorations, rabbits, flowers, and little orange trees everywhere.



- I was alone for most of the trip but I did meet up with three friends on my last day. For the most part, traveling solo was wonderful and something that I truly wanted to experience. But there were times when I caught myself thinking, "oh, it would be so pleasant if blah blah blah or blah blah were here". For example, when I was taking the Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Hong Kong Island, I thought, "This would be a great moment to push Julie (H) into a body of water". But I'm straying. The point is that I had a beautiful afternoon with dear Grace and then we met up with the boys for a lovely dinner on Victoria Peak, which over looked the beautifully lit Hong Kong Island. And then things got messy. And I crab walked. I remember that I had a very good time. Also, I ate about two pizzas. Solo. Because good friends let you have alone time with your pizza.

- Dim Sum is very delicious.

- "Sir, you have to wait". This is what I sternly said with a "no no" finger raised at the grown man who was literally pushing me into the aisle as soon as it was time to exit the plane. There was nowhere for me to go, sir. I don't even know how you got to me so quickly because your wife is the one that was sitting next to me during the trip. She was really sweet. You, not so much...What ever happened to her?

!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!HONG KONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Then I was in Korea for about four days.

Then I went home.

Japan

Japan...Well, it was fantastic. It was very different from my trip to Thailand, which was also most wonderful. Thailand was about having a crazy good time in Bangkok and relaxing in the paradise that is Ko Phi Phi. Japan was full of sightseeing and learning about Japanese culture. As much as I adored my trip to Thailand, I did not walk away thinking that I learned a great deal about Thai culture. I learned that Thai food is scrumtrulescant, that Bangkok is sadly yet also delightfully seedy, and that when I elope with Leo, we will run away to Ko Phi Phi. The focus was on relaxation rather than education. I walked away from Japan in love with their culture and eager to build a time machine to return to Edo period Japan and become the first samurai geisha.

Let me start with the Japanese people. I know there are nice and difficult people no matter where you go in the world, but the Japanese seemed to be particularly friendly and welcoming. Perhaps I have been in Korea for too long and have just found too many occasions to become frustrated by the locals, but the Japanese stood out as less aggressive. True, we required more help in Japan since we were in an unfamiliar country while Korea has become second nature, but we consistently met some of the kindest and most considerate people I've encountered in my travels (both in Asia or back home). Also, no one in Japan ever spat at me and said, “Welcome to Japan”.

While we were in Kyoto, we focused on traditional sights and saw a few temples and a castle. My Buddhist temple stay in Korea sparked an interest in Buddhism so seeing all of these amazing Buddhist temples was a perfect way to continue learning about the religion. Although each temple shared the same features, I never felt bored or that I was seeing a series of replicas. They each had something unique that kept it exciting. Nijo-jo was the only castle we saw and we were able to actually go inside and walk on the nightingale floor, which squeaks at the faintest step to warn the shogun of assassins. I felt like I was in old Japan, which is why I kept my numchucks on the ready. I also received my favorite souvenir at the castle. There was a group of Japanese schoolchildren and one young boy approached me for an interview about my trip to his country. His English was limited so he received a great deal of help from his friend. It was adorable. Then, the cuteness reached epic proportions. When he was finished with the interview, he thanked me by giving me a brochure about Kyoto...which he made himself. This was too much and I nearly vomited chunks of “awww”. I will treasure this gift forever.


After good times and good food in Kyoto, we took the bullet train to Tokyo, passing Mount Fuji along the way. I love Tokyo. It's fun. It's clean. It's beautiful. It's easy to get around. There are so many different interesting areas and I believe that we hit up all the good ones. Ueno provided us with a lovely park and museum as well as a market (I love Asian markets). We had a crazy night amidst the lights of Shibuya (I woke up on the floor of a PC room...raging night in Tokyo, check PLUS). I spent many, many yen in Asukusa, which also had a very lively temple. We checked out the sights of modern Tokyo in Shinjuku AND I found a watering hole where one of my heroes, Mr. Anthony Bourdain, once wet his whistle. Akubara was anime and video game central. Harajuku is where we found stylish Tokyo youth. We did a lot. It was fun but tiring. SO, our last day in Tokyo, my favorite day, was one about relaxing, being entertained, and celebrating a trip well done.


Our last day in Tokyo was a day of Japanese theater and spa. When we first got to Tokyo, Carolyn and I got tickets to see Kabuki theater that Monday. We briefly touched on Kabuki theater in Dramatic Analysis class back at university. I admit, before I started my adventures in Asia, I had little interest in Asian culture. However, Kabuki theater was one bit of Asia that had sparked my interest back in my schooldays and there was no way, regardless of how much yen it cost, that I was missing the chance to see authentic Japanese theater. I would have brought shame upon myself. The ticket covered two performances, the first a full length play and the second a dance performance. Kabuki surpassed my expectations. It was beautiful and unlike anything I had ever seen in a western theater. The traditional kabuki costumes were gorgeous. The actors' movements were what fascinated me most. To me, it was extremely expresssive yet in a constrained manner. Oooohhhhh, it was good. Experiencing the combination of traditional costumes, music, and customs all on one stage was a great cumulative way to end such a cultural trip. Goodness, theater is great. After the theater, we met with our other travel companion, Joseph, and headed to the spa and bathhouse. It was my first time in an Asian bath (they have them in Korea as well) and I was a little nervous about the required nudity. However, after a few minutes, I got over it and enjoyed the hot water and general lethargy. Sooooooooo nice. It was the perfect way to end the trip.


So, my advice is to go to Japan. I think you will like it.

Home Stretch

Two and a half months left. Whoah. I meant to focus this blog on the pure joy that I feel over the thought of returning from whence I came. However, I also feel, for the first time, a little sad at the thought of saying goodbye to my life in Korea. I am rather certain that these next couple of months will fly at an increasingly fast rate. Strange. Even stranger perhaps is that I often forget that I am so far from home and every day is just a typical day in mytypical life. I do think that I might miss you, Korea...but not nearly as much as I miss my home.

Anywho, back to the pure joy bit. The thought of being home soon makes the little demons inside of me dance their pagan dance everyday. I, of course, expect to have some sort of BLOW OUT when I return, so if you are reading this and think that I might enjoy your company, keep your schedule clear around the late beginning/early middle of February 2011. There are an insane amount of things that I miss and must do upon my return. These are the top ones that first pop into mind...

-Baths.
I can spend an hour in the bath. Easy. Candles. Bubbles. Music. Probably a glass or three of wine the first time (to celebrate, of course).

-Sandwiches
I'm going to have a sandwich festival. Others are welcome to join but, really, they will be superfluous. First, I will go on a shopping spree at Domick's and make it rain dolla, dolla bills at the deli. Next, I'll hit up Jimmy John's and Potbelly. When in Minocqua, it'll be all about the grouper sanwich and the french dip at the Thirsty Whale. Korea does not do sanwiches and their attempts at them are abysmal. ABYSMAL.

-Chicago Deep Dish Pizza.
I'm eating the entire thing.

-Englishee!
English everywhere. Hell yes. I will almost always know what is going on around me. I suspect that it will be a sensory overload. I am accustomed to walking down the street and not being able to understand what is being said around me or what I read. Everything is a blur. I suppose this is what it feels like to be a baby or a dog...or entirely inebriated.

-Fresh Air
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, PLEASE.

-Stars
They still exist, right?

- BEER.
Korea has the most terrible beer that has ever touched my sweet, sweet lips and I intend on drinking my weight in proper brews. I shall consume any and every tasty beer in sight.

-Driving
I hope that I don't kill anybody the first time I get behind the wheel again. Even if I do, it will still be cool to drive again.


Ok, now let me turn to what I will miss about Korea. Obviously, the friends I have made here are at the top of the list, but there is also...

-Shopping
Anyone who really knows me from back home knows that I generally don't like to shop. Maybe it's because I'm frugal or maybe it's because it just bores me. Not the case in Korea. I could shop all day everyday in Korea. It's insanely cheap and I seem to always want EVERYTHING. And sometimes, that's exactly what I get. I believe that my wardrobe has doubled, perhaps tripled in the past 10 months. I also love the outdoor shopping shopping areas, even in the winter. They have the perfect combination of shopping, food, and liveliness. AND, if you're extra lucky, you may stumble across an ajumma (older woman) fight.

-Food
I am desperate for the food back home but I will, of course, miss Korean food. Galbi (MEAT!), mondu (dumplings), kimbap (like sushi, but Korean style), and Dak Galbi (a fanastic chicken dish) are the dishes that I shall miss most of all. Don't get me started about how sorely I will miss street food in Seoul. I really don't want to talk about it. I will be losing a part of me. However, I think I'll be ok without the kimchi.

-SOJU
Yes, I have been steering clear of the demon booze these days...but its soooooooooooo cheap. I like knowing that if I want to, I can kill all of my brain cells for under 3 dollars. Its a nice feeling.

-The Kids
Overall, the kids that I work with are rather fanastic. I like 'em.

-My Apartment
It may be small, but I have succesfully created a warm, cozy home away from home.

-Sylvester
After 5 months, Sylvester is still very much alive and he doesn't seem to be going anytime soon. He amazes me everyday with his survival skills. He's my little miracle. No other fish of mine has ever made it past a month or so. I don't know what will happen to him when I leave but I hope that someone kind will see to his care. No singers, though. Sylvester only likes it when I sing to him.

Oh, Korea. Being in Korea has been just like dating someone. I dated Korea. First, it was really exciting and as we got to know eachother, I was constantly discovering new and interesting things. And Korea and I are so different and I often seem to end up with guys that are somewhat opposite of me. Things were good for a while. Functional and often fun. Then, I started to pay more attention to the things about Korea that I don't entirely admire or that irritate me. I also began to feel smothered. Korea was just always there and needing something from me. So, I needed some space and went to Thailand. Now, Thailand was something new and it was also insanely beautiful and charming. I realized that there are other fish in the sea and I broke up with Korea. BUT, we still had to live and work together so things were awkward and tense for a bit. Luckily, we got past all that and although we know that we ultimatley aren't a good match and aren't meant to live our days out together, we are still friends and I appreciate the things that intially drew me into the relationship in the first place. Despite the homesickness and the deep desire to return home, Korea will always have a special place in this black heart of mine.


Oh, I will also miss silliness like the above picture.

Thailand

At the end of September, I went on a most magical vacation to Thailand. It was a rather bipolar trip. First, we spent a couple nights in Bangkok, which was wonderfully strange, somewhat chaotic, and extremely seedy. Then, we flew to Phuket and were ferried to Phi Phi Island, which was obnoxiously beautiful. I believe that I took more photos during my one week in Thailand than I have in my entire stay in Korea thus far. Let me quickly recap some of my favorite moments of the trip....
- The Food
I feel as if I could eat Thai food everyday for the rest of my life. It was the opposite of not delicious. Pad Thai and yellow curry were my favorite dishes. Also consumed were red and green curries, papaya salad, and lots of spring rolls (not really specific to Thailand, but still delicious). And let us not forget the beautiful breakfast buffet that our resort on Phi Phi Island catered every morning. There was no sleeping in during our island stay because my dear friend/roommate Lindsay and I take buffets very seriously. Food everywhere. When we got back to Korea, nothing else seemed delicious. Yes, I like Korean food. I might even love it. But I want to marry, impregnate, and grow old with Thai food.


-Khaosan Rd, Bangkok
While in Bangkok, we stayed right in the middle of Khaosan Rd, which is teeming with shopping, food, bars, and very strange people. During our nights in Bangkok, we stayed on this road and shopped, ate, drank, people watched, got fish massages (TWICE), and I even rescued a lady boy from some jacka** foreign man who wouldn't let go of her purse. Khaosan road reminded me very much of Duval street in Key West but on crack or shrooms. I'd love to go there again.

-Longboat ride through the canal of Bangkok
This was perhaps my favorite part of the trip and an amazing way to see Bangkok. Also, Anthony Bourdain did it on his show, so I KNOW that is was the thing to do. The best part was when our guardian angel pulled up on his floating market, which was loaded with fruits, vegetables, and BEER. Bless him forever.









-Pool Bar.
Yesssssssssss.



-The general beauty of Phi Phi Island
These photos will never do it justice but they will have to suffice for now. The picture in the middle is a lagoon where we swam and the one on the bottom is a bay where my beloved Leo filmed "The Beach". I could feel him in the water. I have many more to share if the reader wishes to ever see more.













-Our resort's attention to detail




Thailand was fantastic. Go there if you can.

Photographs that I was too lazy to take...

No, I have not taken many photos during my time here. I am just not a picture taker. I don't like lugging the thing around, worrying about smashing it, getting it wet, turning out incriminating photos, blah, blah, blah. Also, when I'm having a good time, I want to enjoy the glory of the moment and not break its flow for documentation. HOWEVER, I have friends who DO like to take photos, so I spent a little bit of time going through facebook and stealing their work. Here is what I found....

This first batch are photos of me teaching my Shakespeare class from awhile back. I know this because I haven't worn pants in MONTHS.







These are pictures of some of the classrooms in which I teach. Thankfully, we no longer have classes in the bus...what a DUMB idea. Also, note the ever sexed student (major props to my friend/coworker Keri for snapping this photo)...yes, Koreans love to wear apparel that contains any English. Whether they know what it actually says or not is absolutely irrelevant. I have also spotted many young students sporting Absolut Vodka shirts and other garments of the boozy nature.










THESE I ACTUALLY TOOK! They are from a lantern festival in...April? May? Yeah, one of those months. It was a very fun, very cultural day. Plus, I ate McDonald's chicken selects, which are always delicious.







And thhheeeeeeessse last three are from my recent rafting trip. It was beautiful trip.





So, there you go. Photos.

6 Months In...

I am six months into my contract. It is going by rather quickly and I feel that these next six months will be an even faster downhill ride. Since my last post not much has happened. It has been a wonderfully fun summer, perhaps too much fun. But these days, I have been trying to cut my body and liver a break and have attempted to take it easy...though, in Korea, this is more than often not possible. The only super exciting thing I have done since Mud Festival has been the rafting trip I took part in last weekend. LET ME TELL YOU, it was wonderful to get some fresh air and escape the toxic Incheon air. Also, there was water and LOTS of it. I love water and I love being in my bikini so it was a beautiful way to spend the day.

Other than my trip, there is not much to report. Life seems to be just that nowadays-life. I go to work. I have some giggles. I feed Sylvester (who is, amazingly, still alive). I do some chores. I drink some wine. I tell a child that I will kill him/her (usually him). I try to stick to my workout routine. I eat. poop. sleep. Just like a baby.

About 6 months ago, I blogged about my goals for Korea...let's see how I've done so far and remember that I still have 6 months to not accomplish them all...

1. "Be named teacher of the week"
Point for me. I have been named teacher of the week three times since I started working here. Done and done.
2. "Get in the best shape of my life"
Another point for me. I remember that a smart ass little girl named Julie initially prompted me to take on this goal. As I recall, she thought teacher to be "fat". Well, little Julie, I have definitely lost a few and tightened up. Also when a Korean friend sincerely and confusedly asks you, "Elise, you drink so much beer, but you're not fat. Why?", you figure that you must be doing something right. I was in the best shape of my life probably when I was 7, so I'm not going to say that I am absolutely on the top of my game. BUT, I feel good, I think that I look ok, and you can SUCK IT, little Julie. Suck it.
3."Speak a decent amount of Korean"
HA!
4. "Read most of the books on my shelf"
When I get home from work, my brain and body are tired and all I want to do is watch South Park. Since I have been here, I have only read three and a half books and I don't foresee the reading rainbow getting brighter anytime soon . Anyway, it's the children who need to be literate and the teachers who should get to watch crude cartoons.
5. "Hike a Korean Mountain"
More points for me. I have hiked a couple of mountains, most notably a really big one in Jeju. I don't remember it's name. Trust me, it was big. Just ask Gail.
6. "Learn to cook a Korean dish or two"
POINT. I have actually become rather famous for my kimchi fried rice around these parts. I am also REALLY good at mixing soju with just about anything.
7. "Make one child cry"
I did make one girl cry the other week. Unfortunately, she was crying because she was going to miss me. Those are not the kind of tears I was going for. Minus point.

Six more months to go.

What I miss most right now are bubble baths and decent beer. So, please, send me Leinenkugel bubble bath. Also, a bathtub.

Utopia

At Mud Festival 2010, all I could keep thinking is, "This is the way I was meant to live". Spending the weekend barefoot, in a bathing suit, covered in mud, swimming in the ocean, lying on the beach, and often with a drink in hand was nothing short of utopia. And when it ever became somewhat necessary to wear actual clothing (say, in a restaurant), all I felt compelled to opt for was a ridiculous short sleeved, Homer Simpson hoodie. No pants. No problem.

Let me give you a quick recap of the festivities....

Friday Evening...
-We arrive in Boryeong around 10 pm, settle into our hotel room, have a couple drinks, and head out to the beach and boardwalk.
-We walk the beach for a bit. Oh, how I love big bodies of water. The beach is very pretty and very clean. And, most importantly, I finally breathe some fresh air. Fresh air nonexistent in the Incheon/Seoul area.
-We have a delicious dinner on the boardwalk, in which we consume fresh shellfish/clams cooked right at our table. After the seafood, we decide to sample the chicken ass. At first, I was not a huge fan of chicken butt, but it shortly grew on me. Yummy(ish).
- We head back to the hotel for some rest because there is a big day in store.

Saturday...
- We awake and see that it is a little drizzly and dreary outside. I am not even slightly worried about this minute detail.
- I cook a Korean convenience store breakfast for my roommates. We feast on beef jerky and pepper jack cheese stick omelets with a side of canned fruit cocktail. As I am cooking, Linsday is preparing the Malibu Rum coffee. It is a beautiful breakfast. We play some silly games as we eat and drink and then head off to the festival.
- We reach the beach. I am buried in the sand. We slide down a water slide. Clearly, we are not close enough to the mud yet, as the slide is mudless. Still, it is fun.
- We reach the mud. There are mud pits, slides, painting booths, events, blah blah blah, stationed all around. We mainly hit the mud pits, which are actually rather dangerous. Mud covered monsters welcome you into the pit and then body slam you into the depths of the grime. There are mud fights and wrestling everywhere. It is aggressive, dangerous, primitive, and wonderful.
- Throughout the day, we go back and forth between the mud and the ocean. One of the most lovely aspects of the festival is that you can get as beautifully muddy as your heart desires but then quickly run into ocean, have a little swim, and clean up.
- We meet up with some other friends next to the big stage that is set up for musical performances. We spot a young man who has fallen asleep amidst all of the excitement. Let me note that he is absolutely passed out up against the stage and is right next to the blaring loud speakers. But this does not awaken the little angel...therefore, he absolutely deserves to be buried in the sand.
- We start to head back to the hotel for some rest. However, I am far from ready to rest and decide to use this alone time to swim my little heart out in the ocean. I swim for awhile until the Korean police/beach guards decide that the water is too dangerous for swimming. Let me note that, by American beach standards, the water was nothing to worry about. There were a few waves. That's about it. The problem is that most Koreans don't know how to swim/are terrified of the water/the elements. Therefore, I had to suffer due to their lack of aquatic skills. Not fair.
- As I sadly start to head back to the hotel, I run into John, one of my friends/roommates. He suggests that we rent an inflatable rowboat. I am, of course, on board with this notion. We row, some (me) better than others (John). Unfortunately, the beach guards approach us on their jet skis as they are SCREAMING at us to get out of the water. We are in a boat, aren't we? There's nothing to worry about...or so I thought (right before we capsize).
- We make it back to the hotel, regroup, refresh, and head back to the beach to meet other friends for dinner. We have another delicious dinner on the boardwalk, this time with sam gyup sal, fatty pork that you cook at your table. It is an extremely enjoyable meal with good meat, good drinks, and lots of laughs.
- We take a stroll down the boardwalk, having lots of silly fun along the way. Two of my girlfriends and I eventually sit down on some huge steps to the beach and watch the fireworks.
- We decide to give the rowboat another shot. As the beach guard sees us carrying the boat to the beach, he firsts asks, "Swimming". I reply, "No, boating". The Korean beach guard replies back with "Dangerous". I explain to him, "Koreans, swimming, no. USA, swimming, good" and proceed on my merry way. As Linsday and I were thrown out of our little boat by the fury of the sea, I think "Wow, for once, a Korean policeman was actually being helpful".
- Since we are unable to enjoy the boat in the ocean, we enjoy it on the sand. It almost feels the same. A couple of friends who just arrived in Boryeong meet us on the beach and we have a brief sand fight.
- We head back to the hotel. Goodnight.


Sunday......
-We awaken and spend the morning in the same manner as the previous. The only difference is that we prepare soju boxes after we have polished off the Malibu. A soju box is like a juice box but for adults or misguided youth.
-The weather today is BEAUTIFUL. It is sunny and hot but there is a slight breeze that keeps you cool enough. Most of the day is spent on the beach. I spend most of my time swimming.
-We return to the mud. The mud pits are more organized and less dangerous today, perhaps because there are more children and families around(though, some parents thought that it was fine to let their little girls join in on the mud pit battles yesterday...unbelievable). At one point, our mud pit is cleared of all others and Linsday, Stella, and I are asked to stay in and hounded by about 12 photographers who keep telling us what to do. "Slide in the mud!", "Now, jump!", "Now, eat the mud!". I felt like Heidi Klum. Only less stunning and more muddy. In the second mud pit, we insist that everyone stops what they are doing and play duck, duck, goose. For some ungodly reason, they listen to us.
-We end the day at the beach and then head to another wonderful Korean dinner. This time, we sit on the floor, which is always very festive and usually very uncomfortable. However, I am in such high spirits that I am completely ok with the floor. It is at this dinner where we all notice how insanely sunburned we are. Joe and Bill have it the worst. I do not look too good myself. It's hilarious. Hilarious and painful.
- We drive home and the dream is over.

Mud festival. To this little mud solider, it will forever be remembered as the most glorious of weekends.